Geography

Laos is a landlocked country covering 236,800 square kilometres making it about the same size as Ecuador or Great Britain. It comprises mostly mountains and plateaux. The Mekong River flows through western and southern regions and forms a natural border with Thailand and Myanmar. On its banks nestle most of Laos' important cities, such as the capital Vientiane and the former royal capital, Luang Prabang.

Rugged mountains cover more than 75% of the country. The vegetation is diverse and rich comprising tropical and subtropical species, from mango and palms to hardwoods. About half the country is still covered with primary forests.

Economy

Laos is a poor country with a real per capita GDP of US$328 (less than $1/day), a grossly inadequate economic infrastructure, and a largely uneducated workforce. Agriculture, mostly subsistence rice farming, dominates the economy employing 54% of the population and providing 52% of the national income.

Since 1998 tourism has become the biggest export earner for Laos. Second is the garment industry, and third

Continued…

hydropower exports. Logging used to be the biggest contributor, but with the new stricter bans on logging this activity has dropped dramatically in the official statistics. In reality it might still be number one owing to the voracious activities of illegal loggers.

Climate

The climate in Laos is determined by the monsoons, and Laos falls within the monsoon belt of the tropics. The south-west monsoon, which blows between May and mid-October, brings the rains from moisture picked up in the Indian Ocean. The north-east monsoon, which lasts from November to February, brings cool, dry air from the interior of the continent resulting in mild and dry weather. As mountains cover most of Laos, there are significant climatic variations from region to region based on altitude. Precipitation is also highly variable with more falling on the western, windward slopes facing the south-west monsoon, than the eastern portion that lie in the lee during the rainy season.

Time Zone

Standard time in Laos is 6 hours ahead of Central European Time (CET), 7 hours ahead of GMT, 12 hours ahead of time in New York, 3 hours behind time in Sydney and in the same time zone as Bangkok.

· Laos Visa is available on arrival if travelling by air, otherwise, visa application should be applied to Laos Consulate before coming.

· Dragon Indochina Travel provide visa services for individuals and groups for all countries in Indochina. Please contact indochinevn@hcm.vnn.vn for details.

In the beginning...

The first recorded history of the Lao begins with King Fa Ngum, by legend the 23rd successor of Khoun Lo, who first united Laos in 1353. He established his capital at Luang Prabang and ruled a kingdom called Lan Xang (literally, 'million elephants') that covered much of present-day Thailand and Laos. He also established Buddhism as the state religion.

In the 16th century Lan Xang entered a period of decline caused by dynastic struggles and conflicts with Burma, Siam (now Thailand), Vietnam, and the Khmer Kingdom. By the 18th century, the Siamese and Vietnamese kingdoms were competing for control of Laos. In the 19th century, the Siamese dominated much of what is now Laos and divided it into principalities centred on Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champassak. Late in the century, the French, who already controlled present-day Vietnam, supplanted them. In 1899 France established protectorates and direct rule over all of the principalities, and Laos became part of French Indochina. The Franco-Siamese treaty of 1907 defined the present Lao boundary with Thailand.

...continued

During World War II the Japanese occupied Indochina. A Lao resistance group, Lao Issara, was formed to prevent the return of the French. Independence was achieved in 1953 but conflict persisted between royalist, neutralist and communist fractions. The US began bombing North Vietnamese troops on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Eastern Laos in 1964, escalating the conflict between the royalist Vientiane government and the communist Pathet Lao who fought alongside the North Vietnamese. By the time a ceasefire was negotiated in 1973 Laos had the dubious reputation of being the most heavily bombed country on a per capita basis in the history of warfare. A coalition government was formed but when Saigon fell in 1975 most of the royalists left for France. On 2 December 1975 the monarchy was abolished and the communist Lao People's Democratic Republic was established, and the Pathet Lao peacefully took control of the country. Lao remained closely allied with the Vietnamese communists during the 1980s. Laos cemented ties with its neighbours when it was welcomed into ASEAN in July 1997. There is no political pluralism in Laos; the only party allowed being the Lao People's Revolutionary Party (LPRP).

People Laos' ethnically diverse population is usually divided by topographical zones into three groups: 1. The wet rice cultivating, Buddhist Lao Loum of the lowlands, who are politically and numerically dominant, constituting over half of the total population. 2. The Lao Theung who occupy the mountain slopes and make up about a quarter of the population. 3. The Lao Soung, or upland Lao, who live in the high mountains and practise shifting cultivation, and who make up less than a fifth of Laos' total population. These subdivisions are simplistic and in practice the lines between ethnic groups are increasingly blurred as communication and migration increase across the country. The largest non-Lao groups in Laos are the Chinese and Vietnamese communities in the main cities. Religion The predominant religion is Theravada Buddhism. Animism is common particularly among the mountain tribes. Buddhism and spirit worship coexist easily, even though phi worship is officially banned. The clearest example of this is the Baci ceremony which all Buddhist lowland Lao practise regularly at every major life event such as birth, marriage and death. The ceremony calls all the good spirits together to ward off the evil spirits and to get strength for these important moments in life. Most Christians (primarily Roman Catholic) have left since 1975. Arts and Architecture Lao art is well known for its wealth of ornamentation. As in other neighbouring Buddhist countries the focus is primarily religious in nature. Temple murals and bas-reliefs usually tell the story of the Buddha's lives, the Jataka tales. There is not as wide a range of art in Laos as in Thailand, as the country has been constantly dominated by foreign powers that tended to suppress indigenous culture. Much of Lao history and culture has been destroyed over the centuries, as plundering neighbours such as Siamese/Thais, Chinese and Vietnamese ransacked the towns and cities. Also, wood has always been the primary building material, resulting in a limited life span for ancient monuments. The Ramayana, the famous Indian epic, has become a part of the Lao cultural heritage, and is known as the Phra Lak Pralam. Many of the doors and windows of temples are engraved with scenes from this story, depicting for example the struggle between good and evil. Prime examples are the huge teak shutters at Wat Xieng Thong in Luang Prabang. Sculpture in Laos is more distinctive in style, the best pieces originating from the 16th to 18th centuries. Characteristic of Lao Buddha images is a nose like an eagle's beak, extended earlobes, and tightly curled hair. The best examples are in Wat Phra Kaeo and Wat Sisaket in Vientiane. In addition, there are certain mudras (gestures) that are found only in Lao Buddhist sculpture. These include the 'Calling for Rain', (the Buddha standing, both arms held stiffly at the side of the body, fingers pointing downwards) and the 'Contemplating the Tree of Enlightenment'.Language The official language of Laos is Lao, as spoken and written in Vientiane. As an official language it has successfully become the lingua franca

...continued

between all Lao and non-Lao ethnic groups in Laos. Lao is a monosyllabic, tonal language but it contains many polysyllabic words borrowed from Indian, Pali and Sanskrit as well as words from Khmer. It has 6 tones, 33 consonants, and 28 vowels. Lao is also spoken in north-east Thailand and north Cambodia, which was originally part of the kingdom of Lan Xang. There are five main dialects in the country, each of which can be divided into further sub-dialects. In colonial days French was introduced in the country and is still spoken in towns today, particularly by the older generation. Increasingly, English is being used by the government and the younger generation in the towns are also learning to speak English. Dance and Theatre Lao music and dance have much in common with those of Thailand. Popular instruments include bamboo flutes, drums, gongs, cymbals and pinched or bowed string instruments shaped like banjos. The national instrument is the kaen, a hand-held pipe organ. It is made from bamboo and is similar in appearance to the South American panpipes. Apart from the classical theatre, there is the traditional folk theatre. It is called moo lam and might be best compared with the European tradition of roving minstrels. Moo lam is a very special Lao form of theatre and it has survived all kinds of censorship without change. Classical Lao theatre and dance have Indian origins and were probably imported from the Cambodian royal courts in the 14th century. Thai influence has also crept in over the years. The national folk dance is the lamvong Lao, a circle dance in which people dance in a big circle, the men on one side facing the women, so that in fact two circles within each other exist. Manners As with all cultures everywhere in the world, there are some general rules of conduct that a traveller in Laos should follow. It is best to avoid the time round 11am when visiting a wat as this is when monks usually take their morning meal. Women should not attempt to shake the hand of a monk, hand anything to him, or sit beside him since monks are not allowed to touch women. When talking to a monk, try to keep your head lower than his. When sitting down, feet should point away from the altar and main image. Arms and legs should be fully covered when visiting wats. A small donation is advisable, and it is appropriate to kneel down when giving it. In general pointing with the index finger is considered rude. Patting children on the head should be avoided, as it is the most sacred part of the body. The traditional form of greeting is with hands together, prayer-like, and with head bowed, as in most parts of Asia, but handshaking is done more frequently today. Sensitivity pays when taking photographs. Be very wary in areas that have (or could have) military importance such as airports, where all photography is prohibited. Also be careful when photographing official functions and parades without permission. Always ask permission before photographing a person or in a temple. Holidays and Festivals Festivals in Laos are largely linked to agricultural seasons or historical Buddhist holidays. The general word for festival in Laos is boun (merit) - which means doing good things during the festivities in order to gain merit for a life after death.

Places to Visit

VIENTIANE

In 1563 King Setthathirat made the riverside city of Vientiane the capital of Laos. In those days it was a small, fortified city on the banks of the Mekong with a palace and two wats, That Luang and Wat Phra Kaeo. The city became prosperous from the surrounding fertile plains and taxes levied on trade going upriver. Today, Vientiane is a spacious and charming city. It is South-East Asia's smallest capital and has only about 500,000 citizens - which makes it the most tranquil and laid-back capital of Asia. It lacks the usual hustle and bustle and amazes the traveller with its serene temples and gracious colonial villas. Countless temples and pagodas with important Thai and Khmer shrines and relics are a mirror of the countries chequered past. There are numerous good restaurants and excellent shopping opportunities for Lao handicrafts at the Morning Market and a variety of specialist shops.

LUANG PRABANG

Places to Visit VIENTIANE In 1563 King Setthathirat made the riverside city of Vientiane the capital of Laos. In those days it was a small, fortified city on the banks of the Mekong with a palace and two wats, That Luang and Wat Phra Kaeo. The city became prosperous from the surrounding fertile plains and taxes levied on trade going upriver. Today, Vientiane is a spacious and charming city. It is South-East Asia's smallest capital and has only about 500,000 citizens - which makes it the most tranquil and laid-back capital of Asia. It lacks the usual hustle and bustle and amazes the traveller with its serene temples and gracious colonial villas. Countless temples and pagodas with important Thai and Khmer shrines and relics are a mirror of the countries chequered past. There are numerous good restaurants and excellent shopping opportunities for Lao handicrafts at the Morning Market and a variety of specialist shops. LUANG PRABANG This is the best place to discover Lao history and culture. For more than eight centuries Luang Prabang was the royal residence and the political and cultural centre of Laos. According to legend two resident hermits chose the site of the city. Today Luang Prabang is a picturesque small town (with approximately 30,000 inhabitants) on the Mekong River. Mount Phousi, right in the town centre, affords a magnificent view of the town and its surroundings. Especially worth seeing are the former Royal Palace containing the National Museum and the Wat Xieng Thong temple. Luang Prabang's surroundings have a lot to offer as well: the Pak Ou Caves that contain thousands of Buddha images can be explored on boat trip up the Mekong River. Other attractive one-day excursions include visits to the weavers' village, Ban Phanom, and the Kuang Si waterfalls.

PHONESAVANH

One of the last mysteries of Asia lies here. Despite many theories about the 'Plain of Jars', archaeologists have still not discovered the real meaning and function of the countless earthenware jars that are up to eight feet high and lie scattered over the plateau. Local legend relates that King Khoon Chuong and his troops from South China had a huge party after their victory over the wicked Chao Angka and had the jars made to brew enormous quantities of Lao rice whisky (lau-lao). Although American bombing destroyed many jars, a trip to this area is still worthwhile and is enhanced by visits to the local ethnic minority villages of the Hmong. A trip to the Tham Piew caves and the hot springs nearby are worth an extra day.

PAKSE AND THE SOUTH

Pakse is synonymous with Wat Phou in the same way as Siem Reap is with Angkor in Cambodia and there are many parallels. The founder of the first Khmer Empire, Jayavarman II, who built Angkor also built Wat Phou. It is much smaller than Angkor, but about 30 years older and at times was the Khmer capital. After Angkor, Wat Phou is one of the cultural highlights of Laos and South-East Asia.

Pakse is a busy commercial town built by the French early this century as an administrative centre for the South. The town has seen better days but the many colonial buildings lend an air of old world charm. Pakse is known locally for its large market. An excursion from Pakse leads to the Bolaven plateau and to villages of minorities who belong to the native populations of South-East Asia. Here coffee, tea and moderate-climate fruits are grown. The Mekong Islands on the Cambodian border area can also be reached from Pakse. The Mekong River at this point is about 8.5 miles wide and encompasses about 4,000 islands during the dry season and about half of that during the rainy season. This unique landscape forms one of the most impressive sights of this region. One of the highlights is South-East Asia's largest waterfall, Khon Phapheng.

Shopping

Laos is an ideal place for buying handicrafts and souvenirs. Best buys from Laos are hill-tribe crafts and textiles. Antique textiles from north Laos are occasionally available. There are a wide variety of modern materials that are used to make the pha sin, the Lao sarong, and pha baeng, or shawl, worn by Lao women.

Making silverware is a traditional craft in Laos - most of it is in the form of jewellery and small silver pots. Chunky antique tribal jewellery, bangles, pendants, belts and earrings are often sold in markets in the main towns or antique shops in Vientiane. The tribal belts (sai ao) that are part of the traditional dress of Lao women are especially popular with tourists. Craftsmen in Laos still produce carvings for temples and coffins. Designs are usually traditional, with a religious theme. Craftsmen produce carved panels and statues for tourists that are available in outlets in Vientiane. Elephant statues ranging in size from small to huge are also very popular.

The export of antiques, Buddha statues and important cultural or historical items from Laos is prohibited.

Eating and Drinking

Lao food is spicy and delicious. There are many similarities between Lao and Thai food, although the former is slightly influenced by Chinese cuisine. Lao dishes are distinguished by the use of aromatic herbs and spices. Rice, especially sticky rice served in small bamboo containers, is the foundation for all Lao meals, and almost all dishes are cooked with fresh vegetables, freshwater fish, poultry, duck, pork, beef or water buffalo. Limejuice, lemon grass and fresh coriander give the food its characteristic taste, and various fermented fish condiments are used to salt the food.

A traditional Lao dish is laap (also meaning 'luck' in Lao), made from raw fish or meat crushed into a paste, marinated in lemon juice and mixed with chopped mint. It is called laap sin if it has a meat base and laap paa if it's fish based.

There is also a well-ingrained Vietnamese culinary tradition, and Chinese food is never hard to find. Laos has inherited a sophisticated and tasty colonial legacy. French cuisine is widely available, with street cafes serving delectable fresh croissants, baguettes, pain au chocolat and a selection of sticky pastries.

Health

We strongly recommend having a good health insurance and carrying a good first aid kit. In general there is a lack of well-trained medical help and hospitals. For minor ailments, the Vientiane International Clinic offers good service. For any major health problems we recommend going to Thailand.

VACCINATIONS

The government of Laos does not require you to have any vaccinations except for cholera if you are coming from an infected area. However, it is strongly recommended that you have yourself vaccinated against cholera, hepatitis, tetanus, and typhoid. Optional vaccinations are Japanese encephalitis and rabies.

MALARIA

The best protection against malaria is to avoid being bitten in the first place. Check with your physician about taking a course of anti-malarials. If it is considered necessary given your itinerary, you might need to begin before your trip and continue for a time after you return. The greatest risk of

Continued…

contracting malaria is between May and October at altitudes below 3,000 ft./ 1,000 m. There is no malaria in Vientiane or Luang Prabang. Dengue fever, which is also transmitted by mosquitoes, is often mistaken for malaria. Its symptoms are severe pain in the joints, high fever, and extreme headache. Aside from avoiding being bitten altogether (this mosquito is active in daytime and is often a striped variety), there is no prevention available. Hospital treatment is urgently required

FOOD & WATER

Although towns have access to safe water, less than a third of the countryside can claim the same. Avoid all water that hasn't been thoroughly boiled or sterilized and drink only sterilized water or soft drinks. All water and ice-cubes that are served to you in restaurants in the cities are safe for consumption. You should not eat any uncooked vegetables and do not eat any fruit that you haven't peeled yourself. Make sure that fish and meat is well cooked.

Do not swim in stagnant water as you run the risk of contracting bilharzias.

Getting Around

Laos is a mountainous country with no railway and few good roads. With the Mekong River being such a prominent topographical feature it is not surprising that it plays a significant role in communications and life. There are slow boat services for tourists who want to experience life on the river between some towns. Speedboats are also an option for travellers with a tight schedule, though not always recommended.

AIR

Lao Aviation has an extensive network throughout Laos. There are connecting flights between the tourist highlights such as Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse and Xieng Khouang. Domestic airport tax is 5,000 Kip (August 2001).

TAXI

Taxis are not normally metered, so your fare is negotiable. However, the going rate is around US$ 0.50 per km. Always negotiate before setting off.

BUS

Currently there are no longer travel restrictions for tourists who want to go to the provinces by bus. All areas are safe to travel. The most common long distance bus runs between Vientiane and Luang Prabang and it takes around 10 hours. Many tourists nowadays stop at Vang Vieng and spend a night there before continuing the last stretch of their journey.

Since Laos is mountainous and its road conditions poor, journeys can be long and exhausting, although the scenery is beautiful. During the rainy season, between June and September, roads are frequently impassable.

TUK TUK

The most popular means of transport within cities is the tuk tuk. These 3-wheeled vehicles with two benches placed sideways in the back can be found everywhere. Always negotiate before setting off

Hotels

Lao Plaza
63, Samsenthai Road, Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 21 88 00
Fax: +856-21- 21 88 08

Settha Palace
6, Pang Kham Street, Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 21 75 81
Fax: +856-21 21075 83

Novotel Belvedere
Unit 9, Samsenthai Road
P.O. Box 585, Vientiane
Tel.: +856 - 21 - 21 35 70-4
Fax: +856 - 21 - 21 35 72

Le Parasol Blanc
263 Sibounheuang Road
P.O. Box 815, Vientiane
Tel.: +856 - 21 - 21 60 91
Fax: +856 - 21 - 22 22 90

Royal Dokmaideng
Lan Xang Avenue,
P.O. Box 3925, Vientiane
Tel.: +856 - 21 - 21 44 55
Fax: +856 - 21 - 21 30 90

Villa Santi
Sakkarine Road,
P.O. Box 681 Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 21 22 67 / 21 23 17
Fax: +856-71- 25 21 58

Phou Vao Hotel (Pansea)
Domaine de Phou Va
P.O. Box 50, Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856 - 71 - 21 25 30-2
Fax: +856 - 71 - 21 25 34-5

Mouang Luang Hotel
Boun Khong Road,
P.O. Box 779 Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856 - 71 - 21 27 91
Fax: +856 - 71 - 21 27 90

Le Parasol Blanc
11, Ban That Luang, Phou Vao street Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 25 21 24
Fax: +856-71- 25 21 59

Phousi
Setthathirath Street
Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 21 21 92 / 21 27 17-8
Fax: +856-71- 21 27 19

Sanakeo
Phou Vao Street,
P.O. Box 061 Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 25 29 92
Fax: +856-71- 25 30 50

Phouphadeng
Ban Phonsavanh Xieng Kuang
Tel.: +856 - 61 - 31 20 44
Fax: +856 - 61 - 31 20 44

Restaurants

Kua Lao
Samsenthai Road, Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 21 48 31

Tamnak Lao
That Luang Street, Vientiane
+856-21- 41 35 62

Continued…

Indochina Spirit
Phothisarath Road,
Nam Phou Square Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 25 23 72

Vouthimixay
Phou Vao street
Luang Prabang
Tel.: +856-71- 21 28 88

Airlines

Lao Aviation
2 Thanon Pang Kham (Fa Ngum end) Vientiane Tel.: +856-21- 21 20 57

Thai Airways
M&N building, room no. 70/101-103 Luang Prabang Road, Khounta Thong Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 22 25 27/-9

Banks

Banque Pour le Commerce Exterieur (BCEL)
1, Thanon Pang Kham
Vientiane

Lan Xang Bank
near Wat May
Luang Prabang

Health

International Clinic
(near Mahosot Hospital)
Fa Ngum street
Vientiane

Post and Telegraph Office

GPO
corner Thanon Khou Viang / Lan Xang
(opposite Morning Market)
Vientiane

EMS & Federal Express
at GPO

Post and Telephone Office
Photisarath
Luang Prabang

Foreign embassies in Vientiane

Germany
26, Sokpaluang Street
Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 31 21 10

France
Thanon Setthathirath
Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 21 52 58

USA
Thanon That Dam
Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21 21 25 81

Australia
Thanon Phonxay
Vientiane
Tel.: +856-21- 41 36 00